Sandalore™ – Sandalwood and the OR2AT4 Research
Sandalore™ by Givaudan – The Complete Reference
Sandalore™ is more than a sandalwood aroma material. It is one of the few aroma molecules that have made it into the medical literature – as a key substance for a receptor that regulates hair growth in human hair follicles. This reference combines the practical perfumery perspective with this unusual scientific story.
Contents
- What is Sandalore™?
- What does it smell like?
- Role in the formula – where and how to use it
- Origin – from 1976 to Guerlain Samsara
- The science behind Sandalore™ – OR2AT4
- Sustainability and ecotoxicity profile
- Quick reference: chemistry, safety and supplementary toxicology
- Further questions
1. What is Sandalore™?
Sandalore™ (CAS 65113-99-7, EC no. 939-525-3) is a synthetic sandalwood molecule by Givaudan. According to the Certificate of Analysis, it is present as an isomer mixture (sum of isomers ≥ 88%, method MA-0247) – similar to many other complex aroma molecules of this class, but without the number of individual isomers being stated in the name itself, unlike, for instance, Ebanol™.
2. What does it smell like?
Givaudan's official sensory profile describes Sandalore™ as "woody, warm, mild, milky." The manufacturer's description adds: a powerful, diffusive and exceptionally tenacious product with a rich, warm, natural-seeming sandalwood character that brings volume and substantivity into compositions. Historically, the perfumer Arcadi Boix Camps described the material as early as 1985 as sweet, warm, strong and woody, with an initial effect on the blotter noticeably above that of natural sandalwood oil – though with shorter longevity than the natural material itself.
3. Role in the formula – where and how to use it
Sandalore™ fulfills four distinguishable functions in perfumery, which show to different degrees depending on the dosage:
- Signature note – as a standalone, clearly recognizable sandalwood note that forms the backbone of woody and oriental compositions
- Enhancer/booster – lends volume, richness and substantivity, and serves as an extender for precious natural sandalwood oil
- Fixative – because of its low volatility, it anchors lighter top and heart notes and lengthens the entire fragrance development
- Harmonizer – its creamy-soft effect builds bridges between woody bases and floral, fruity or ambery accords and rounds off the sharp edges of other materials
As a rough guide to dosage – depending on the desired effect:
- Under 1%: acts mainly as a fixative, gives the drydown a subtle creamy warmth without standing in the foreground itself
- 1–5%: becomes a structuring element with a clearly recognizable sandalwood note
- Above 5%: can dominate the base and create a powerful, sandalwood-focused effect
Proven combination partners: With cedarwood, Sandalore™ rounds off its dryness while at the same time reinforcing the woodiness. With vetiver, it smooths its earthy edges. In white-flower and jasmine accords, it provides a velvety background. It also supports musk and vanilla notes with additional volume. Officially confirmed by Givaudan is the combination with Ebanol™: both materials occupy different facets of the same sandalwood theme and complement each other in jointly building a more complete sandalwood impression.
Practical note on evaluation: As with several synthetic sandalwood materials, a specific anosmia can occur – some people perceive the molecule in pure form barely or not at all. It is therefore advisable to evaluate Sandalore™ diluted (e.g. 10% in ethanol) rather than neat.
4. Origin – from 1976 to Guerlain Samsara
Sandalore™ was developed by Givaudan in the 1970s, with a patent application in 1976. The trademark was officially filed on 6 June 1977 (US registration number 1097829). The name itself is a coined word: "sandal-" refers to the Sanskrit term candanah, "wood to be burned as incense," which found its way into the European languages via Greek (sántalon) and Latin (santalum). The ending "-ore" recalls a mineral ore – a hint at something precious, concentrated.
A historical milestone for the material was Guerlain Samsara (1989): the legendary fragrance was known for its then-unmatched use of sandalwood notes. Alongside a high proportion of natural Mysore sandalwood oil, the creamy-powerful character was additionally reinforced and stabilized by synthetic materials such as Sandalore™.
5. The science behind Sandalore™ – OR2AT4
Sandalore™ is one of the few perfumery raw materials that have found their way into one of the most renowned scientific journals in the world. A study published in Nature Communications in 2018 showed: human hair follicles express an olfactory receptor called OR2AT4 – the same receptor type through which fragrance molecules are normally perceived in the nose, but here in the outer root sheath of the hair follicle.
The targeted activation of this receptor by Sandalore™ prolonged, in the study ex vivo, the growth phase (anagen) of human hair follicles: the apoptosis (programmed cell death) of the hair matrix keratinocytes decreased, while the production of the growth-promoting factor IGF-1 increased. The specific OR2AT4 antagonist Phenirat, as well as the targeted silencing of the receptor, abolished this effect again – strong evidence that the effect is indeed mediated via this receptor.
A further study, published in 2022 (MDPI, Antioxidants), investigated OR2AT4 in human skin keratinocytes and found: activation by Sandalore™ suppressed oxidative-stress-related cell aging (senescence) and instead promoted cell proliferation and autophagy via a CaMKK-beta/AMPK/mTORC1 signaling pathway.
For the cosmetics sector, these are fascinating starting points – independent of the perfumistic effect of the material, these studies show that aroma molecules can act via receptors that reach far beyond the nose.
6. Sustainability and ecotoxicity profile
The underlying test data from the safety data sheet:
| Test | Result | Method |
|---|---|---|
| Toxicity to fish (fathead minnow) | LC50: 2.3 mg/l (96 h) | OECD 203, GLP |
| Toxicity to water fleas | EC50: 1.1 mg/l (48 h) | OECD 202, GLP |
| Toxicity to green algae | EC50: 7.1–8.2 mg/l (in some test series partly > 17 mg/l) | OECD 201, GLP |
| Biodegradability (ready) | 78% degradation in 28 days | OECD 301F, GLP |
| Biodegradability (inherent) | 75% degradation in 35 days | OECD 302C, GLP |
Sandalore™ is thus both readily and – in a second, stricter test procedure – inherently biodegradable: a molecule that breaks down again comparatively quickly, even though it is classified as hazardous to water for aquatic organisms. Under the German Major Accidents Ordinance, it additionally falls into the category "environmental hazards E2" (quantity thresholds 200 t / 500 t) – relevant for large operations, not for ordinary laboratory use.
7. Quick reference: chemistry, safety and supplementary toxicology
You will find the complete physico-chemical data as well as the basic safety information (acute toxicity, skin and eye irritation, sensitization, genotoxicity) on the product page. In summary: CAS 65113-99-7, C14H26O, 210.30 g/mol, Givaudan code 8847801 – classified as eye-irritant and hazardous to water (H319, H411), otherwise toxicologically unremarkable and readily biodegradable.
Supplementary from the test program, without a counterpart on the product page: phototoxicity was tested negative on the guinea pig – Sandalore™ thus shows no light-induced increase in skin irritation.
Further questions about Sandalore™
What is the most sensible way to dose Sandalore™?
That depends on the desired function: under 1% as a subtle fixative, 1–5% for a clearly recognizable sandalwood note, above 5% for a dominant, sandalwood-focused effect.
Can everyone smell Sandalore™?
Not necessarily – as with several synthetic sandalwood materials, a specific anosmia can occur. A dilution before evaluation is recommended.
What does Sandalore™ have to do with hair growth?
A study published in Nature Communications in 2018 showed that Sandalore™ activates the receptor OR2AT4 expressed in human hair follicles and thereby prolongs the growth phase of human hair ex vivo.
Is Sandalore™ suitable for high-pH applications?
It is considered chemically stable across a broad pH range and works well in alkaline applications such as soap, as well as in slightly acidic to neutral applications such as shampoo.