Timbersilk™ – the quiet sibling of ISO E Super
Timbersilk™ – the quiet sibling of ISO E Super
Whoever talks about woody-amber molecules from the house of IFF almost always means ISO E Super®. Yet IFF carries a second, closely related material: Timbersilk™. Same molecular formula, similar sustainability profile – and still a character of its own. This page explains where the difference comes from and what the official manufacturer data actually show.
Contents
- What Timbersilk is chemically
- The gamma isomer
- Timbersilk and ISO E Super compared
- Renewable carbon and upcycling
- IFRA and classification
- Frequently asked questions
1. What Timbersilk is chemically
Timbersilk is a ketone with the molecular formula C16H26O and a molecular weight of about 234 g/mol – the same values as ISO E Super. The main isomer is 1-(2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-octahydronaphthalen-2-yl)ethanone.
IFF describes Timbersilk as a smooth, warm, woody-amber note, powerful yet silky soft, that gives compositions fullness and subtle strength. According to manufacturer data, it performs evenly across top, heart and base note and lasts more than 48 hours on the blotter.
2. The gamma isomer
Materials of this kind are usually not single pure molecules but mixtures of closely related isomers. How these proportions are distributed differs from grade to grade – and that is exactly where the difference the nose perceives lies.
For Timbersilk, the situation according to the manufacturer's data (IFF, product code H20085, TOCO grade) is clear: the material is registered at 90–100% under CAS 68155-66-8 / EC 915-730-3, i.e. under the gamma isomer.
3. Timbersilk and ISO E Super compared
Both materials come from IFF. Molecular formula, molecular weight and typical field of use are practically identical. IFF itself describes ISO E Super as richer in the desirable gamma isomer than isocyclemone – the isomer that shapes the velvety effect.
In practice this means: Timbersilk and ISO E Super are not a relabeling of the same raw material, but not fundamentally different materials either. Anyone who wants to judge the nuance themselves is best off comparing both directly on the blotter over several hours.
4. Renewable carbon and upcycling
According to IFF's sustainability profile, Timbersilk consists of 75% renewable carbon, is considered natural derived, an upcycled product and suitable for vegan formulations. The supplied quality is stabilized with tocopherol (TOCO grade).
Renewable does not automatically mean environmentally harmless, though: according to the manufacturer's data, the material is very toxic to aquatic life with long-lasting effects.
5. IFRA and classification
The substance is subject to an IFRA Standard (Amendment 49) with a restriction due to dermal sensitization and systemic toxicity; the maximum levels per product category in the current IFRA Standard are authoritative.
According to the manufacturer's data (IFF), Timbersilk TOCO is classified with GHS07 and GHS09 and the signal word "Warning": H315, H317 and H410. Residues therefore do not belong in the wastewater.
Frequently asked questions
Is Timbersilk the same as ISO E Super?
No. Both come from IFF and have a very similar property profile, but they differ in their isomer distribution and therefore in nuance.
What is the CAS number of Timbersilk?
According to the manufacturer's data, Timbersilk TOCO is registered at 90–100% under CAS 68155-66-8 (EC 915-730-3), the gamma isomer.
How high can Timbersilk be dosed?
IFF names a typical usage range of up to 10% in the formula. For the finished product, the maximum levels of the IFRA Standard also apply.
Is Timbersilk sustainable?
According to IFF, it contains 75% renewable carbon and is an upcycled product. At the same time, according to the manufacturer's data, it is very toxic to aquatic life.