Ambrettolide – Macrocyclic Musk by Givaudan | Perfumery Raw Material

Ambrettolide – Macrocyclic Musk by Givaudan

Perfumery Raw Material

Ambrettolide takes its name from ambrette seed – and the connection between the two lies not only in the name. The character of the material also differs from many other musks.

On the blotter, Ambrettolide often seems surprisingly restrained. No sharp edges, no dominant musk cloud, no immediately recognizable signature. Only within a composition does the material's true strength emerge – it rarely changes a fragrance through volume, but by feeling like a natural part of its development rather than an added component.

Its character stays closer to skin than to fabric. This is precisely what makes Ambrettolide special: the material does not create distance, it shortens it. This gives rise to compositions that feel immediate, familiar and self-evident.

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Odor profile of Ambrettolide

Ambrettolide is perceived as:

• soft musk
• ambrette facets
• subtle fruity nuances (berry, pear)
• silky transparency
• gentle warmth
• fine musk structure
• restrained sensuality
• skin closeness

The scent recalls the soft side of musk – not cleanliness, not freshness, but warmth, skin and a calm musky radiance. According to Givaudan, the odor threshold is 1.97 ng/L – Ambrettolide is thus perceptible even in the finest traces. On the blotter it remains perceptible for a month according to Givaudan.

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What is Ambrettolide used for in perfumery?

Ambrettolide is often used when musk should be perceptible without shifting the fragrance toward a fresh accord or textile associations. Typical applications are musk accords, skin-scent perfumes, floral compositions, white-flower accords and amber compositions. The usage range, according to Givaudan, is traces to 2%.

The material is suited to soft base structures, supports the drydown and improves the tenacity of a formula. It is used in women's, men's and unisex perfumery as well as in body-care products, deodorants, antiperspirants, shampoo, hair care, soaps and other care products. Givaudan rates burning effectiveness as well as substantivity (wet and dry) each as "Good."

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Special properties

Ambrettolide combines transparency with high persistence. The material remains perceptible on blotters for a long time and changes its character only slightly in the process. Added to this are good diffusion and pronounced substantivity.

Despite its persistence, Ambrettolide rarely feels heavy. The musk effect remains clearly recognizable without displacing other components of a composition. It is precisely this combination of tenacity, transparency and skin closeness that distinguishes Ambrettolide from many other musk materials.

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A note on the designation

The Ambrettolide offered here is – as with practically all commercial suppliers (IFF, Givaudan, Symrise) – correctly designated as iso-ambrettolide. The musk that actually occurs naturally in ambrette seed carries a different CAS number (7779-50-2) and is occasionally – incorrectly – equated with this material. Both share important olfactory properties but are not identical.

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Macrocyclic musk – why the molecular class matters

Ambrettolide belongs to the class of macrocyclic musk lactones – chemically and ecologically a different family from the better-known polycyclic musk compounds such as Galaxolide or Tonalide.

According to the Givaudan safety data sheet, Ambrettolide is readily biodegradable – 84% degradation after 28 days (OECD 301F, GLP-tested). It is not classified as a PBT or vPvB substance and shows no endocrine-disrupting properties.

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Regulatory note

Ambrettolide (CAS 28645-51-4) is not subject to any quantity restriction under the IFRA 51st Amendment – not even in Category 4 (fine fragrance). Under Regulation (EC) No. 1272/2008 it is not classified as a hazardous substance.

In Germany, Ambrettolide is classified as WGK 2 (significantly hazardous to water) – do not allow to enter waterways or drains. It is not listed on the REACH SVHC candidate list.

Check current IFRA Standards and EU regulations before use in commercial products.

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Safety

According to the Givaudan safety data sheet:

• Acute oral toxicity: LD50 rat >5000 mg/kg
• Acute dermal toxicity: LD50 rabbit >5000 mg/kg
• Skin sensitization: non-sensitizing (1% in petrolatum, human)
• Phototoxicity: negative (guinea pig)
• No endocrine-disrupting properties

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Physico-chemical properties

Property	Value
Manufacturer	Givaudan
Product name	Ambrettolide
Chemical name	Oxacycloheptadec-10-en-2-one
Fragrance family	musky / fruity / floral
Perfumery role	base note, fixative, musk structural material
Material form	colorless to pale-yellow liquid
Molecular formula	C₁₆H₂₈O₂
Molecular weight	252.4 g/mol
Density at 20°C	953.3 kg/m³
Refractive index nD20	1.4791
Flash point	169°C (ISO 2719)
Auto-ignition temperature	260°C (DIN 51794)
Boiling point	307°C at 1013 hPa
Vapor pressure	<1.0 hPa at 20°C
Odor threshold	1.97 ng/L
Water solubility	6 mg/L
Log Pow	>6.0 (OECD 117)
Tenacity on blotter	1 month
Usage range	Traces – 2%
Purity	≥97.0% (ISO 7609, polar)
Storage	10–30°C, dry, protected from light, tightly closed
CAS no.	28645-51-4
EC no.	249-120-7
REACH registration number	01-2120103324-74
FEMA	4145
Biodegradability	84% after 28 days (OECD 301F)
Water hazard class (WGK)	2 (significantly hazardous to water)
IFRA status	no quantity restriction, not even in fine fragrance

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Frequently asked questions

What is Ambrettolide?
Ambrettolide is a synthetic macrocyclic musk by Givaudan with a soft, fruity-floral character close to the natural musk of ambrette seed oil – without being chemically identical to it.

Is Ambrettolide the same as the musk from ambrette seed?
No, not exactly. The commercially available material is more precisely designated as iso-ambrettolide. The musk that occurs naturally in ambrette seed carries a different CAS number (7779-50-2). Both share important olfactory properties but are not identical.

Are there IFRA restrictions for Ambrettolide?
No. Ambrettolide is not subject to any quantity IFRA restriction, not even in fine fragrance (Category 4).

How does Ambrettolide differ from polycyclic musk compounds?
Ambrettolide belongs to the class of macrocyclic musk lactones. According to Givaudan it is readily biodegradable (84% after 28 days) – a clear difference from many polycyclic musk compounds.

How long does the scent of Ambrettolide last?
According to Givaudan, one month on the blotter at dosages of traces to 2%.

Is Ambrettolide hazardous to water?
In Germany it is classified as WGK 2 – do not allow to enter waterways or drains. At the same time it is readily biodegradable and not classified as a PBT substance.

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Hazard Information (CLP Labelling)

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Important note

This product is a perfumery raw material intended exclusively for fragrance development, creative experimentation, education and the study of perfumery materials.

It is not a finished cosmetic product.

Please use responsibly.