Woody-Amber Molecules: ISO E Super, Amberfleur & Ambermax
Woody-Amber Molecules: ISO E Super, Amberfleur & Ambermax
Woody-amber molecules are the invisible backbone of modern perfumery: dry, woody, slightly ambery – rarely in the foreground, but almost always present. The best known is ISO E Super. This page places three materials from our range in context: ISO E Super, Amberfleur and Ambermax – and tells you when to use which.
What is a woody-amber molecule?
It means the dry, woody-cedar facet with a hint of ambergris, as found in cedarwood and ambergris. ISO E Super is the benchmark for it – and, interestingly, not a single molecule but a mixture of more than twenty isomers. The ratio of those isomers decides whether a material smells more woody or more ambery.
The building blocks in detail
ISO E Super – the original
ISO E Super (CAS 54464-57-2) is dry, woody-cedar, with facets of ambergris, vetiver and patchouli. Its strength is “medium” – it works both as a booster (making other materials fuller) and as the backbone of a composition. It became famous as Molecule 01 by Escentric Molecules. More in the ISO E Super reference and the complete reference.
Amberfleur – the ISO-E-Super type
Amberfleur belongs to the same family – a woody-amber molecule of the ISO-E-Super type. It shows the same dry-woody direction; depending on the isomer ratio it can lean a touch more ambery. In practice Amberfleur is the economical choice for the backbone of large formulas: available from us up to the 1 kg size.
Ambermax – the concentrated amber
Ambermax (Givaudan, 50% in Dowanol TPM) is a different character: distinctly more intense, with a powerful, dry amber-woody signature. It is less a neutral backbone than a radiance booster – used sparingly, it gives a base volume and echo. More in the Ambermax reference.
Direct comparison
| Molecule | Type | Character | Role |
|---|---|---|---|
| ISO E Super | Iso-E (20+ isomers) | dry, woody-cedar | backbone & booster |
| Amberfleur | ISO-E-Super type | woody, perhaps a touch more ambery | backbone (bulk) |
| Ambermax | Givaudan concentrate | powerful, dry-ambery | radiance booster |
No warranty – always check the current IFRA amendment for the relevant category before use.
Which for what?
- Neutral, woody backbone – ISO E Super, generously.
- The same in larger volume / more economical – Amberfleur.
- Powerful amber radiance – Ambermax, sparingly.
- Transparency & volume without a note of its own – ISO E Super or Amberfleur at low dosage.
A practical note: woody-amber molecules are only partly perceived by some people (partial anosmia, as with Ambroxan). They still work in the formula – other noses smell them clearly. If you want ambergris depth rather than wood, combine them with a true Ambroxan material such as Ambrofix (see also the Ambroxan comparison).
Frequently asked questions
Is ISO E Super a single molecule?
No – it is a mixture of more than twenty isomers. The isomer ratio determines whether it smells more woody or more ambery.
What is the difference between ISO E Super and Amberfleur?
Both belong to the same Iso-E family and smell very similarly dry-woody. Amberfleur is the economical alternative for the backbone and is available from us up to 1 kg.
When Ambermax instead of ISO E Super?
When it should be more powerful and ambery. Ambermax is concentrated and works more as a radiance booster – dose sparingly.
Why can I barely smell ISO E Super?
Some people are partly anosmic to woody-amber molecules. The material still works in the composition.
References: ISO E Super · Ambermax · Ambroxan comparison