Ambrox® DL (dsm-firmenich) | The Amber Classic as Racemate

Ambrox® DL – dsm-firmenich

Ambrox® DL is the racemate of the amber classic Ambrox: both mirror-image forms of the molecule are present in equal parts. dsm-firmenich developed the chemical synthesis route in 1988, when clary sage – the classic raw material – ran short. The result is an elegant, woody-tinted amber note; DL shares its CAS number 3738-00-9 with Cetalox® from the same house.

Odor Profile

• “An elegant ambery note with a rich woody character.” – the manufacturer’s description
• Fragrance family: Ambery; heart and base note
• Perceptible on a blotter for about a month (tenacity 12 on the manufacturer’s scale)
• White crystalline solid

Role in the Formula

“This ingredient provides warmth, richness and elegance to all areas of perfumery from sheer florals to modern ambers,” the manufacturer writes. DL shows its best effect at low dosage; higher levels are used deliberately when performance and tenacity are needed.

Compared with Ambrox® Super: DL is the racemate from chemical synthesis (log P 5.95), Super the pure (−)-enantiomer from the fermenter (log P 6.85). Smell them side by side and you experience first-hand what stereochemistry means in perfumery. All amber molecules of this family compared: Ambroxan: all versions compared.

Use in Perfumery

• Fine fragrance: 0.5–3%
• Shampoo: 0.06–0.4% · Shower gel: 0.2–0.7% · Soap: 0.06–0.4%
• Laundry detergent: 0.03–0.2% · Fabric softener: 0.1–0.6%
• All-purpose cleaner: 0.04–0.2% · Candles: 0.04–0.2%
• Substantivity (manufacturer’s scale): shampoo 4/4, shower gel 2/3, soap 2/3, detergent 3/4, softener 4/4, candle 4/3

Practical Notes: Dissolving, Storage, Pairing

Dissolving: Insoluble in water, soluble in ethanol. For formula work a 10% solution in ethanol is recommended.

Storage: Cool, dry, protected from light and tightly closed.

Pairing: From sheer florals to amber accords – as a warming, fixative element in heart and base.

The Answer to a Sage Shortage

The dsm-firmenich amber family begins with the ambergris research of the 1930s; in the 1950s it produced Ambrox® and Ambrinol. DL followed in 1988: because clary sage ran short, Firmenich developed a purely chemical route that does without the plant. The manufacturer states a green score of 70–100%.

Safety Information

According to the manufacturer's data, Ambrox® DL is classified as hazardous: reproductive toxicity, category 2 (H361 – suspected of damaging fertility or the unborn child) and hazardous to the aquatic environment, chronic, category 2 (H411 – toxic to aquatic life with long lasting effects). Pictograms GHS08 and GHS09, signal word "Warning". No IFRA Standard exists. The manufacturer rates the material "Ultimately Biodegradable".

Physico-Chemical Properties

FAQ

What is Ambrox® DL?
The racemate of Ambrox (CAS 3738-00-9), chemically synthesised since 1988: an elegant amber note with a rich woody character.

How does it differ from Ambrox® Super?
DL contains both mirror-image forms and is made chemically; Super is the pure (−)-enantiomer from white biotechnology. Super reads more animalic, DL more woody.

How do I dose Ambrox® DL?
In fine fragrance 0.5–3%. Its finest effect shows at low dosage; higher levels add performance and tenacity.

Are there IFRA restrictions or hazard warnings?
No IFRA Standard exists. According to the manufacturer's data, however, the material is classified as hazardous (H361, H411 – see hazard statements below).

Hazard Statements (CLP Labelling)

Important Notice

This product is a perfumery raw material intended exclusively for fragrance development, creative experimentation, education and the study of perfumery materials.

It is not a finished cosmetic product.

Please use responsibly.