Ambrox® Super (dsm-firmenich) | Biotech Ambroxan

Ambrox® Super – dsm-firmenich

Ambrox® Super is the pure (−)-enantiomer of Ambrox, the key odorant of grey ambergris. Firmenich (today dsm-firmenich) decoded its structure in the 1930s; since 2016, Ambrox® Super has been made through white biotechnology – with 100% renewable carbon and readily biodegradable. The same molecule is sold under names such as Ambroxan, Ambrofix™ or Orcanox.

Odor Profile

• “Extremely powerful and elegant ambery odor with a musky, woody tonality” – the manufacturer’s description
• Official descriptors: Ambery, Woody
• Compared with Cetalox®, per dsm-firmenich “more natural, more animalic and closer to the original ambergris”
• Perceptible on a blotter for about a month (tenacity 12 on the manufacturer’s scale)
• Crystalline powder

Role in the Formula

Ambrox® Super sits in the heart and base, yet it works from the first spray into the drydown: dsm-firmenich describes it as highly diffusive, with an amber effect that runs through the whole composition. It clings exceptionally to hair, skin and fabric – in shampoo, shower gel, soap and fabric softener it earns the top rating on the manufacturer’s scale. For fine fragrance the manufacturer recommends 0.6–3%.

Stereochemistry and production separate it from its sibling Ambrox® DL: Super is the single (−)-enantiomer from the fermenter (log P 6.85), DL the racemate (CAS 3738-00-9) from the chemical synthesis developed in 1988. The same molecule as Super, but from other houses, is available here as Ambrofix™ (Givaudan), AmberMor® (IFF) and Ambroxide Cryst. (Symrise).

Use in Perfumery

• Fine fragrance: 0.6–3%
• Shampoo: 0.05–0.1% · Shower gel: 0.1–0.7% · Soap: 0.06–0.3%
• Laundry detergent: 0.2–0.8% · Fabric softener: 0.2–0.8%
• All-purpose cleaner: 0.02–0.03% · Candles: 0.02–0.1%
• Substantivity (manufacturer’s scale): shampoo 4/4, shower gel 4/4, soap 4/4, detergent 3/4, softener 4/4, candle 3/3

Practical Notes: Dissolving, Storage, Pairing

Dissolving: Insoluble in water, readily soluble in ethanol. For precise work at the organ, a 10% solution in ethanol is recommended.

Storage: Cool, dry, protected from light and tightly closed.

Pairing: Fits amber, woody and musk accords. As a heart-to-base material it carries a composition from the opening to the finish.

From Ambergris to White Biotechnology

Firmenich’s ambergris research goes back to the 1930s – to a research environment honoured in 1939 with the Nobel Prize in Chemistry for Leopold Ružička. In 2016 came the step into the fermenter: clary sage enzymes produce the precursor sclareol, and green chemistry takes it on to (−)-Ambrox. According to the manufacturer, independence from sage harvests means consistent quality and reliable availability; the green-chemistry score is 50–70%. The full story is told on our encyclopedia page Ambrox® Super.

Safety Information

According to the manufacturer's data (Firmenich/dsm-firmenich), Ambrox® Super (CAS 6790-58-5) is not classified as hazardous – no pictogram, no signal word, no H-statements. No IFRA Standard exists. According to the manufacturer, readily biodegradable.

Physico-Chemical Properties

FAQ

What is Ambrox® Super?
The pure (−)-enantiomer of Ambrox (CAS 6790-58-5), made by biotechnology at dsm-firmenich – the house that discovered the molecule in ambergris.

Is Ambrox® Super the same as Cetalox®?
No. Cetalox® and Ambrox® DL are racemates (CAS 3738-00-9). The warm, animalic facet belongs to the (−)-enantiomer – which is why, according to the manufacturer, Super smells more natural and closer to real ambergris.

How do I dose Ambrox® Super?
In fine fragrance 0.6–3%; from about 2% it clearly shapes the base. Best worked from a 10% solution in ethanol.

Are there IFRA restrictions or hazard warnings?
No. There is no IFRA Standard for CAS 6790-58-5, and according to the manufacturer's data the substance is not classified as hazardous.

Hazard Information (CLP Labelling)

Important Notice

This product is a perfumery raw material intended exclusively for fragrance development, creative experimentation, education and the study of perfumery materials.

It is not a finished cosmetic product.

Please use responsibly.

Comparison of all Ambroxan versions →