Glucam™ P-20 (Lubrizol)

Glucam™ P-20 – Lubrizol

Glucam™ P-20 is not a fragrance material. It is a tool: an odourless, non-volatile liquid that slows the evaporation of the top notes in a perfume formula and takes the harshness out of the alcohol. Chemically it is a propoxylated methyl glucose ether – a sugar backbone carrying polyether chains, miscible with water, alcohol, esters and oils alike.

What it does in the formula

• Fixative: Damps the evaporation of the light top notes and thereby evens out the whole drydown
• No odour of its own: Very low odour and light in colour – the composition is not altered, only carried
• Alcohol harshness: Takes back both the sharpness in the nose and the sting on the skin
• Humectant: Binds moisture and leaves a soft, gliding skin feel
• Universally miscible: With water, ethanol, esters and oils – a combination that is rare among liquid carriers

Why this matters to perfumers

The classic problem with a self-built formula is the beginning: the citrus and aldehyde notes are gone after ten minutes, and a gap opens up before the heart arrives. A physical fixative does not intervene through odour but through evaporation – it lowers the volatility of the light components and pulls the drydown straight.

An important distinction: a low-volatility solvent such as DPG, benzyl benzoate or isopropyl myristate is not a fixative. It dilutes and carries a formula but barely touches the evaporation. Why that is so is set out in detail in our reference on the subject.

The second point concerns the skin. An eau de parfum with 80% ethanol stings on application, particularly after shaving. Glucam™ P-20 takes that effect back noticeably, without changing the scent.

And third: because the material dissolves in both water and oil, it works where two different carriers would otherwise be needed – in alcohol-free fragrance waters, in hair and body sprays, or in roll-on formats.

Dosage

The figures below refer to the alcoholic or aqueous portion of the composition, not to the total formula. For an eau de parfum the difference is small; in oily systems it is considerable.

To judge the effect for the first time, set up two identical batches – one with 1.5%, one without – and compare after twenty minutes and after two hours. The difference shows at the transition from top to heart, not in the first minute.

Practical note: dissolving, storing, combining

Dissolving: Miscible with water, ethanol, organic esters and oils. The material is distinctly viscous and heavier than water (relative density 1.1) – stir well before measuring and stir it into the batch rather than merely pouring it in.

Storing: Tightly closed, well ventilated, do not allow to freeze – frost is the only storage condition the manufacturer expressly names as one to avoid. Minimise contact with air: no preservatives are added.

Combining: In alcoholic perfumes as a fixative at 1–2.5%. In alcohol-free systems as carrier, solubiliser and humectant. Do not bring into contact with strong oxidising agents.

Origin and regulatory status

Raw material base: the backbone is methyl glucoside, obtained from corn starch. Polypropylene glycol chains are built onto it. The manufacturer states a Natural Origin Content of 12% under ISO 16128 (RCI 0.09) – the sugar part is plant-derived, the greater part of the molecule comes from the propoxylation. We quote the figure because “plant-derived” would be misleading without it.

EU microplastics regulation: Glucam™ P-20 is a liquid polymer and, according to the manufacturer, does not fall under the restriction on synthetic polymer microparticles under Regulation (EU) 2023/2055. That regulation covers solid microparticles, not liquid polymers.

Purity: no antioxidants and no preservatives added. None of the 26 declarable fragrance allergens is to be expected. No VOC content. Heavy metals below the detection limit of 20 ppm (arsenic 2 ppm). Residual propylene oxide below 1 ppm.

Compliant with the EU Cosmetics Regulation. Listed in DSL, ENCS, AICS, IECSC, PICCS and KICS; TSCA and EINECS: exempt.

Safety information

Under GHS/CLP, Glucam™ P-20 is not classified as hazardous. No labelling elements are required – no pictogram, no signal word, no hazard statements.

The test data support this: oral LD50 (rat) above 5,000 mg/kg, dermal LD50 (rabbit) above 2,000 mg/kg, not skin-irritating. Ecotoxicologically inconspicuous – LC50 fish and EC50 daphnia each above 10,000 mg/l. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review classified the substance group as safe at the usual use concentrations in 2016.

A note on the undiluted material: the safety data sheet assesses eye irritation by read-across as non-irritating. The CIR review, however, cites a test on the material itself in 100% form, where it is classed as a mild, transient irritant. Eye protection is therefore part of working with the concentrate.

Otherwise the usual laboratory rules apply: avoid prolonged or repeated skin contact, do not inhale mists or vapours, work in a well-ventilated environment, keep containers closed, wash hands after handling. Spilled material and dried film are slippery – clean surfaces promptly with soap and water.

Transport: not regulated as dangerous goods (IATA and IMDG).

Physico-Chemical Properties

FAQ

Does Glucam™ P-20 smell of anything?
Practically not. The safety data sheet notes a very faint odour of its own; at dosages around 1–2% nothing of it is perceptible in the finished perfume. That is precisely what makes it usable as a fixative.

What exactly does a physical fixative do?
It does not intervene through odour but through evaporation. By lowering the volatility of the light components, it stops the top note from breaking off before the heart takes over.

I added DPG and noticed nothing – why?
Because DPG is a solvent, not a fixative. It dilutes and carries but barely touches the evaporation. The same goes for benzyl benzoate and isopropyl myristate.

How high should the dosage be?
Preferably 1.0–2.5% based on the alcoholic or aqueous portion; the documented overall range is 0.5–5%.

Can I replace glycerine with it?
In alcoholic and hydroalcoholic fragrance products, yes, in the range of 2–15%. The advantage: the same skin feel without stickiness – and the fixation on top, which glycerine does not provide.

Is this a natural product?
No. The backbone comes from corn starch, but the greater part of the molecule comes from the propoxylation. Under ISO 16128 the Natural Origin Content is 12%.

Does it fall under the EU microplastics regulation?
According to the manufacturer, no. Regulation (EU) 2023/2055 covers solid synthetic polymer microparticles. Glucam™ P-20 is supplied liquid and stays liquid in formulations.

Does it need preserving?
No preservatives are added to the raw material and the total viable count is below 10 per gram. In water-containing finished formulations, a preservative system remains a matter for the recipe, as usual.

Does it tolerate frost?
No. The manufacturer expressly names freezing as a condition to be avoided. Cool is unproblematic, frozen is not.

Important note

This product is a perfumery raw material and serves exclusively for fragrance development, creative experimentation, training and the study of perfumery materials. It is not a finished cosmetic product. Please use responsibly.

Glucam™ P-20 – fixative, chemistry and application →