Exaltolide® Total – Musk from the Ring
Exaltolide® Total – Musk from the Ring
Exaltolide® Total (product code 935985) is a quality of the musk lactone cyclopentadecanolide from dsm-firmenich: a macrocyclic musk, solid, lasting around two weeks on the blotter. This page summarises what the manufacturer's data say about the origin, character and use of the material.
Contents
- What Exaltolide Total is
- Musk from the ring: the macrocyclic group
- Role in the formula and dosage
- Dissolving, storing, combining
- Classification and IFRA
- Frequently asked questions
1. What Exaltolide Total is
Exaltolide® Total is cyclopentadecanolide (CAS 106-02-5, molecular formula C15H28O2, molecular weight 240.39 g/mol). The official descriptors are Musky, Powdery, Woody. The manufacturer describes a "particularly sensual effect on the skin".
On the manufacturer's scale the material reaches a tenacity of 10; on the blotter it lasts around two weeks. It is a white to pale yellow solid with a melting point of 52–53 °C; the flash point is 180 °C, the log P 7.2.
2. Musk from the ring: the macrocyclic group
Cyclopentadecanolide is a macrocyclic lactone – a molecule with a large ring. It belongs to the macrocyclic musk molecules that were found in nature and developed for perfumery in the 1930s/40s.
According to its own statements, dsm-firmenich has worked on musk for over 90 years – since a Nobel Prize in Chemistry in 1939 – and calls itself the "House of Musk". A second group of macrocyclic musks was developed later in the Firmenich laboratories: Habanolide® from the late 1980s (patent 1989), Muscenone® Delta in the early 1990s (patent 1992).
3. Role in the formula and dosage
According to the manufacturer, Exaltolide® Total "gives depth and roundness to a wide range of creations" and "creates synergy in the bouquet of a perfume". As a base musk it rounds off compositions rather than covering other materials.
The average dosage in fine fragrance is 1.86 % according to the manufacturer, with maximum values up to 7.36 %. The average is 1.5 % in shampoo, 0.9 % in shower gel and soap, 1.5 % in detergent, 3.1 % in fabric softener, 0.13 % in all-purpose cleaner and 0.75 % in candles.
4. Dissolving, storing, combining
As a solid, Exaltolide Total is easiest to handle as a 10 % solution in ethanol or DPG; gentle warming in a water bath speeds up dissolving. Store it cool, dry, protected from light and tightly closed.
For layered musk bases, combine it with other macrocyclic musks: Velvione®, Silvanone® Supra, Habanolide® and Globalide®. For an alicyclic musk, see Helvetolide®.
5. Classification and IFRA
According to the manufacturer's data, cyclopentadecanolide is classified with pictograms GHS07 and GHS09 and signal word "Warning": H411 (toxic to aquatic life with long lasting effects) and H317 (may cause an allergic skin reaction). According to the manufacturer the material is readily biodegradable, with a Green Score of 70–100 %.
IFRA: Restriction Standard "Cyclopentadecanolide" (49th Amendment, restriction due to dermal sensitisation and systemic toxicity); maximum level in Category 4 (fine fragrance): 2.4 %; the current IFRA Standard is authoritative.
Frequently asked questions
What is Exaltolide Total?
A quality of the musk lactone cyclopentadecanolide (CAS 106-02-5) from dsm-firmenich: a powdery-woody macrocyclic musk in solid form, lasting around two weeks on the blotter.
How should Exaltolide Total be dosed?
In fine fragrance an average of 1.86 %, a maximum of 7.36 % (manufacturer data). In addition, the current IFRA Standard applies to the finished product. As a solid, it is best handled as a 10 % solution in ethanol or DPG.
What can Exaltolide Total be combined with?
With other musks such as Velvione®, Silvanone® Supra, Habanolide®, Globalide® or Helvetolide®. According to the manufacturer it creates synergy across the whole bouquet.